PURCHASING
Quality Guarantee
- My tapestries and fiber constructions are made out of only the highest-quality 100% wool weft with a cotton warp. Through the use of computerized sketches, ordering a tapestry to be designed for your home or office is easy. By communicating with you or your committee, I am able to discuss your needs and the options that are available, as well as answer questions. I will confirm your total cost, sales tax if applicable, (NY residents), and shipping charges when you decide to place an order. If you are not satisfied with a fiber piece during the first fifteen days after receipt of delivery you may return it to me for a complete refund, excluding shipping costs. Most commissioned pieces are not returnable. If the shipment is lost or an object is damaged in shipping, I will refund in full as soon as I have confirmation from the shipping agent. so, keep your shipping record when returning an object.
Pricing
- The cost of a fiber piece is priced per square foot, depending upon complexity of design and technique employed. Sketches are free but always remain the property of the artist. Free sketches are emailed but there is a nominal charge for hard copy/mailed sketches. There are various techniques that can be employed to achieve the image that best enhances your environment and stays within a predetermined price range. After finalization of the image and approval of the final sketch, a deposit of 30 - 50% is required before construction begins. Upon receipt of your deposit, I begin weaving/construction and send you updates of the progress. A tapestry usually progresses at the rate of 1 to 2 inches per day while other techniques proceed much faster. A firm deadline must be mentioned before sketching begins.
- Final payment is then due within 30 days after receipt/installation of the your project. After 30 days 1.5% interest will be charged to your account monthly.
Shipping
- All art works of reasonable size are shipped either Federal Express or United Parcel Service. All merchandise is delivered to your door, and insured for its full replacement value. Customer pick-up can also be arranged from my studio in Rochester, New York, although, please note that NY sales tax is applicable.
Copyright Information
- I reserve all rights to any and all designs developed in my studio. It is my policy to apply for copyrights on all designs, and to vigorously protect all intellectual property owned by Laurie dill-Kocher against infringement and misuse. Accordingly, no tapestry may be reproduced, in any form or material, without the written prior permission of the artist.
FIBER CARE
Environmental Control
Maintaining the fiber piece will depend upon controlling the effects of Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from natural daylight and fluorescent light bulbs. One of the greatest threats to textiles is light. The amount of light (intensity) and the duration of exposure will determine the rapidity with which color changes in the tapestry will occur. Color change is not the only consequence of exposure to light. Textile fibers also become weak and brittle through exposure, and the effects of this deterioration are permanent, and cumulative. The range of the spectrum of light that you should concern yourself with includes ultraviolet, visible light and infrared from natural and artificial light sources. Incandescent lights seem to have an acceptable level of ultraviolet radiation, although these lights do produce infrared radiation (heat), which accelerates chemical reactions, such as the embrittlement of fibers. The location of this light source is important. It must not be too close to the tapestry. Briefly, the guidelines that you should try to attain are the following:
- avoid placing textiles in direct sunlight
- use ultraviolet filtering films on windows (www.gilafilms.com) or energy efficient lowE windows
- avoid fluorescent lighting or use ultraviolet filters on lamps
- note placement of artificial light sources and relocate bulbs if there is a heat build-up close to the textile.
The placement of the tapestries is optimal in the space but the windows should have some UV protection (film) placed on the windows if not already present. This should protect the fiber piece from about 98% of the UV. Not illuminating any spotlights will also help in decreasing the damage to the piece. I do not feel that the textile will need any illumination other that what is already naturally present in the room, but if needed an easy and acceptable solution is to make sure that you use ultraviolet filers on the lamps.
High temperatures, excessive heat, and high humidity can also accelerate the deterioration of textiles and provide a desirable climate for insects, mold and mildew. If mold and mildew are caught early enough, before staining has set, the textile can be removed and a textile conservator contacted immediately. Ideally, a climate of 65-70°F and 50-55% relative humidity is best. However, the maintenance of an environment with as little fluctuation as possible is important. The mold and insect (moth) problem has also been buffered since the piece hangs away from the wall. This increases air circulation and light. Moths and mold generally like a dark moist environment. By placing the textile away from the wall the “hidden” area is decreased. Also by backing the textile with canvas the insect damage is lessened. Moths like to hide on the underside (floor or wall) of a textile and feed on the wool fibers from the back. By backing the piece in a cotton canvas it prohibits them from immediate direct contact with the wool fibers. Also, any accumulated moisture from the space in between the wall and textile will evaporate faster with cotton than wool.
Although air pollution is an enemy of textiles, dirt and dust will probably be the greatest problem with this piece. Dust particles act like small knives, cutting into fibers as the textiles expand and contract in response to changes in relative humidity. A regular schedule of inspection and vacuuming is generally recommended to maintain the fiber piece. I do not agree with anyone other than a conservator, vacuuming a textile. Improperly vacuuming a textile, rather than leaving the dirt untouched, generally causes more damage. The textile should be checked for dirt and insects during the regular servicing of lights. I don’t feel that the piece will need vacuuming for at least five to ten years but that will be determined on the level of dirt and dust in the area. If there is damage or if the tapestry is excessively dirty then it should be cleaned by a textile conservator. Never have the tapestry cleaned by a dry cleaner. The chemicals used by a dry cleaner can damage the color of the tapestry and degrade the wool.
When to Consult a Conservator
As textiles age, they may not always react to general cleaning procedures in a predictable manner. The best care for the fiberwork is proper handling and storage. A conservator will recommend treatments based not only on his or her experience with similar objects but, also upon careful examination of the piece. To locate a conservator for advice and to treat textiles, contact the Conservation Referral Service of the Foundation of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC). The Institute is the professional organization to which many conservators belong, and their free referral service can provide you a list of individuals in your area of the country who undertake conservation treatments. A brochure with guidelines on how to select a conservator will also be provided with the referral list. AIC, American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works 1717 K Street NW Ste 301 Washington, DC 20006 202-452-9545 202-452-9328 (fax) info@aic-faic.org
Storage
Please remember to store the fiberwork in the best environment that you can. The best location for textile storage is a cool, dry room. Make sure there is sufficient air circulation to prevent mold growth. Archival materials should be used to package textiles for storage wherever possible. Archival products such as acid-free tissue, rolling tubes, and boxes are relatively expensive, but a worthwhile investment. Once packaged, textiles can be stored on rust-free metal shelving, or in drawers. If using wooden shelving or drawers, seal the wood with a water-borne polyurethane varnish, and place a barrier of archival tissue between the wood and your packaged textile. This is important to prevent the transfer of acids from the wood to your textile. Whenever possible, store textiles flat. Rolling a textile for storage is also an option, particularly for larger pieces. An archival tube is the best support for a rolled textile. A plain cardboard tube can be substituted providing heaver layers of acid-free tissue buffer it. If a textile has been lined, roll with the lining face up. Some wrinkling will occur when the two fabrics are rolled together, but it is preferable for the wrinkling to occur on the lining than on the textile itself. Complete the roll with an outer layer of washed muslin, which will act as a dust cover. The cover should be long enough to wrap around the textile about one and one-half times, and wide enough to tuck the muslin securely into the ends of the rolling tube. Fasten the wrapping in place with ties of cotton twill tape or strips of muslin. Tie the covering securely, but not so tightly as to cause indentations in the roll. Avoid using plastic cleaner’s bags and vinyl garment bags that deteriorate and could potentially harm your textile. There are large archival boxes available for the storage of textiles (approximately 18” x 60”). If it is necessary to fold a textile for storage, crumple sheets of acid-free tissue and place the crumpled tissue in the folds to prevent creasing.